Wednesday, September 28, 2011

East End Animals

Years ago it was possible to say that one could see more “animals” at a West Ham home game than on a safari in the Masai Mara. That was back in the seventies, eighties and nineties. The rougher element of West Ham United Football Club’s so called supporters had a fearsome reputation as trouble makers and punch-up merchants. These days however, it must be said that a much more pleasant atmosphere prevails at their home ground in London’s East End.

I’ve been a West Ham United fan since 1966 when the club’s three star players Bobby Moore, Martin Peters and Geoff Hurst formed the backbone of England’s one and only triumphant World Cup side. That glory has faded somewhat nowadays and West Ham languish in the second tier Championship, having been relegated from the Premier League last year. Nevertheless, they remain a well supported club and last Saturday my wife and joined almost thirty thousand other fans at the Boleyn Ground in the Cockney heartland suburb of Upton Park. There were many more families, mums, dads and kids and far fewer police around than I’ve ever seen at the ground before. In fact it was only after the game had finished that we saw any coppers at all. There were two watching the good natured crowd leaving stadium and perhaps a dozen monitoring the queues to get into the tube station.

All in all it was a terrific day out with a fantastic atmosphere inside the ground, and I can thoroughly recommend a visit to any England Premier League or Championship football match. West Ham did not play well on the day as it happened, but they still won so I was happy. My wife was happy too thanks to a visit to her favourite markets – Queens Market in Green Street . It’s a big undercover conglomeration of south Asian, West Indian and British stalls where one can buy anything from saris to sugar cane and pork pies to plantains. It’s a great place to kill half an hour or so before a game. Green Street itself in fascinating. Take a stroll west from Upton Park station and you are immediately transported to Karachi or Mumbai. The further west you walk the fewer white faces you see and the shops and restaurants reflect the ethnic majority. However, walk east from the station towards the football stadium and white faces prevail, it becomes more like any other British street. It’s amazing, the transformation is so abrupt that it leaves you slightly disorientated.

The day after the game we flew to Prague. We’d both wanted to see this reputedly beautiful city for years, so we pounced on a three day window of opportunity when it appeared. We were not disappointed in the least. Our hotel was the Hotel Clement in a quiet street only a few minutes walk from the heart of the Old City. And what an Old City it is. Some of the architecture is stunning and there are numerous atmospheric squares in which to wander or to sit quietly with a cold beer and simply partake in a little people watching. There are churches and spires everywhere you look. There’s a magnificent fourteenth century bridge upon which to stroll across the Vitava River and a stunning castle and palace to explore on a hill on the other side. The food is tasty and the helpings large, though not particularly cheap. The beer is good and so is the wine.

I think it as at night that Prague really comes into its own. Many of the old buildings are spectaculary lit, especially the Church of Our Lady before Tyn which towers above the huge Staromestska Square and lends the entire medieval scene a definite fairy tale air. Please, do yourself a huge favour and visit Prague at the first opportunity. It really has to be on of Europe’s most beautiful and friendly cities.

Friday, September 16, 2011

Dubai Stopover

Dubai is a very popular stopover on the way to East Africa and many other places for that matter, so for those of you who haven't sampled the delights of this Emirate yet I will give you the benefit of my recent experience there; but remember, this is a personal impression. Try it for yourself one day and see if you agree.

I'd booked my accommodation through Emirates - the airline. Their land operator is Arabian Adventures and I found them to be super efficient. Passengers are met in the arrivals hall - before passing through immigration. Those passengers who require a visa (Aussies don't.) are assisted through the procedure. We were directed to the Arabian Adventures desk where we were handed our itinerary and an information pack and then given directions on how to find our transfer vehicle. It was all very impressive. What a shame the immigration department is not equally efficient. It seems to be the way of things these days. Australia's isn't much better and New Zealand's is worse still. No matter how many passengers are lined up waiting to be processed they only ever seem to have four immigration officials rostered on to deal with them. These officials are dressed in dazzling white robes that appear to have been bleached to within an inch of their lives. Each of their movements (and they are few and far between) are slow and deliberate. It seems to take an age for them to lift their rubber stamp and bring it down on your passport. It all happens in super slo-mo.

Never mind. Once we were through immigration the efficiency returned. On the other side of the customs hall we made our way to the Arabian Adventures office and from there we were led out to a brand new Audi for the transfer to our hotel. Within half an hour we were in a room twenty three stories above Dubai at the Pullman Hotel Mall of the Emirates with fine views over the dusty streets towards the spectacular Burj al Arab Hotel from who's helicopter landing pad on the roof Tiger Woods once whacked a ball into the Arabian Gulf. That was before his marriage fell apart along with his game. These days he'd probably miss.

We had a city tour the morning after we arrived. Once again the super efficient Arabian Adventures picked us up bang on time. The first half of the tour was mildly interesting. We were driven along the road that runs close the the beach, though we could rarely see it. There were many large houses and mansions and lots of smart cars. Dubai is a new city, so don't expect to see many old buildings. Before the 1960's it was a tiny fishing village. Then they discovered oil and ker-pow! The place exploded. One of the few old building is the fort which is now a very interesting museum. You'll enjoy that. It's very well done. We were ferried across Dubai Creek to the Gold and Spice souks. Don't expect anything like Fez or Marrakech. Both souks are relatively small and relatively uninteresting. The gold on sale there was the really bright yellow stuff and the jewellery that it had been made into was gaudy and tasteless. The kind of thing you might expect to find draped over the mistress of a Russian mafia boss.

The following afternoon a went on the Sundowner Dune Dinner Safari. This was fun. It's operated by Arabian Adventures. We were driven out to what they call the "Empty Quarter". except once we arrive it certainly wasn't empty. There were about thirty 4WD vehicles all containing up to six passengers. The expert drivers zoom up and down the desert dunes in what is quite a thrilling ride, but perhaps not one for anyone suffering from motion sickness. Finally the passengers are disgourged into a permanent camp amid some tall and very beautiful dunes. Here we were treated to a camel ride, a very good dinner and a particularly energetic belly dance show before being ferried back to our hotels. It was definitely worth doing.

One of the most interesting sights we encountered in Dubai was in the Mall of the Emirates. There amongst the designer goods shops was a four hundred metre ski slope with real snow. Yes, that's right. It was 42 degrees centigrade outside and -2 degrees on the slopes where women in black padded ski burqas were swishing down the slope at a rate of knots and Japanese tourists kitted out in indentical, specially hired snow gear were taking photos of everything and anything. Off the ski slope was a Swiss resturant called Cafe St Moritz. It served halal fondue and had an artificial log fire blazing away in the hearth. I couldn't help thinking that it summed Dubai up nicely. Artificial.

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Serengeti

Flying into one of the dirt landing strips in Tanzania's Serengeti National Park is unforgettable, especially when the great wildebeest migration is there. As the aircraft banks around on it's final descent you can see great long strings of black shapes meandering towards the distant grey rainclouds and the promise of fresh green pasture. These herds, often in single file stretch for miles across the landscape, separating, joining up and then fanning out again like a river delta. There are forested areas, water holes, rounded hills and rocky kopjes amid the great grass plain. In the distance you'll most likely see the high mountains surrounding the famed Ngorongoro Crater. Clouds often cling to the peaks, lending it a mysterious, lost world appearance.



As the plane sinks towards the ground the pilot keeps a sharp lookout for vultures and you peer through the wind shield to try and pick out the runway. It's there. As the aircraft makes one final turn you see it. A tan gravel scar cut in the grass, the same colour as a lion. It seems so short, but the pilot knows what he's doing after a thousand bush strip landings and there's just a slight bump as you touch down you pull up in plenty of time before taxiing back to where your lodges transfer vehicle is waiting for you. Meanwhile in the trees nearby half a dozen giraffes are delicately nibbling at the upper branches and close to where the vehicle are parked there's a family of spotted hyenas lounging around outside their den. They take little notice as you disembark the plane and stride towards your vehicle with a cool breeze tugging at your hair. The air is thin and crisp, you're over five thousand feet above sea level. The empty sky is a milky blue and you've just been deposited on a vast plain filled with wild animals. Every moment here is special.


Flying out of the Serengeti is just as unforgettable. In a few days you've become familiar with the landmarks and the animals who inhabit this special place. Your lodge transfer vehicle does a quick sweep up the runway to make sure that it is clear of wildlife. There's a large male warthog at one end, he erects his tail and trots off into the trees. The only other animals around are the hyena family, still lolling in the dust outside their den. You wait with your driver, then you hear the drone of a distant aircraft. It's yours - a small, dark spot in the distance. It grows in size until it is recognisable. At last it touches down in a cloud of dust, thrown up by the wheels and it trundles over to where you wait. Ten minutes later you're rocketing down the airstrip, praying that an elephant doesn't decide to charge out of the trees. Then you're free of the earth again, above the Serengeti, and still the rivers of wildebeests are flowing slowly towards the distant rain.

     

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Join Me In Kenya & Tanzania In 2012

I've had a great deal of interest in a small group tour of Kenya & Tanzania that I've been working on. The group will consist of only 8 people including myself and my stunning (So she tells me.) wife Jacky.
We will be travelling in our own 4WD vehicle and our own driver/guide. In Kenya we'll be staying in 4 star lodges and hotels. Whilst we're in Northern Tanzania we will also have our own 4WD vehicle and driver/guide.

Here we will be camping in private camp sites in large walk-in ensuite tents which will be set up prior to our arrival by a crew of support staff who will be driving ahead of us in another vehicle carrying the equipment.
Each tent will contain either a double bed or two single beds complete with linen. No sleeping bags and uncomfortable thin foam mattresses on the floor for us thank you very much. All the cooking is done by the camp staff - and you'll be amazed at the quality of food.


In Southern Tanzania we will be staying in 4 star hotels and two of Fox's Safari's most stunning wilderness lodges. These lodges are beautifully located, supremely comfortable, and once again the food is excellent.
At Fox's Safari Lodges we will be treated to two game drives per day. In Kenya we will also be having two game drives per day and the same applies to Northern Tanzania. So as you can see, we'll have plenty of time to get up close and personal with East Africa's amazing wildlife. Both Kenya and Tanzania are scenically stunning too. You are going to love this trip of a lifetime.




So here's the final itinerary.

19 September 2012
Met on arrival and transferred to Southern Sun Mayfair Hotel, Nairobi for 2 nights accommodation.

20 September 2012
At 10am after breakfast we will have a day tour visiting Daphne Sheldrick's Elephant Orphanage, The Giraffe Centre, The Karen Blixen Museum including lunch at Carnivore Restaurant.

21 September 2012
After breakfast we depart for Amboseli National Park for 2 nights at the Amboseli Sopa Lodge. Lunch here and then an afternoon game drive.

22 September 2012
Morning and afternoon game drives in Amboseli National Park. Wonderful views of Mount Kilimanjaro. (Weather permitting.)

23 September 2012
After breakfast we drive to central Kenya and stay one night at the Serena Mountain Lodge in the shadow of spectacular Mount Kenya. Here we'll have the afternoon at leisure to view the wildlife as it comes to the waterhole in front of the lodge.


24 September 2012
Today we drive on to Samburu National Reserve for 2 nights at Samburu Sopa Lodge. This scenic reserve has four of the big five (No rhinos.) and some species that are found in very few other places. Gerenuk, grevy's zebra and vulturine guinea fowl to name three. We'll arrive in time for lunch and an afternoon game drive.

25 September 2012
Morning and afternoon game drives in the reserve.

26 September 2012
After breakfast we drive to Lake Nakuru National Park. After lunch we have an afternoon game drive. Here there are many animals in a small, very scenic area. Great game viewing. We overnight at Lake Nakuru Lodge.

27 September 2012
Today we depart for the famous Masai Mara Game Reserve with lunch being served en-route. We arrive in the early evening and will stay for 2 nights at Mara Ashnil Lodge. (See link below.)
http://www.ashnilhotels.com/masaimara/index.asp

28 September
Morning and afternoon game viewing. We will be seeking the vast herds of wildebeest and zebra that are present in the reserve at this time of year. An awesome and moving spectacle.

29 September
Transfer to the airstrip after breakfast. Today we fly to Kilimanjaro Airport in Tanzania via Wilson Airport in Nairobi. We arrive early in the afternoon and will be transferred to the town of Arusha. (About an hour.) We'll spend the night in the very comfortable Arusha Hotel.

30 September
Nice relaxed morning, and then after lunch we drive to Lake Manyara and enjoy a short game drive in Tarangire National Park. We camp at a private campsite at Lake Manyara.

01 October
After breakfast we have a game drive in lake Manyara National Park where we will seek the famous tree climbing lions. other inhabitants include hippos, monkeys, flamingos and a wide variety of other birds and mammals.



02 October
Today we drive to the Serengeti, eating lunch en-route. This is one big game drive. We camp once again in a private campsite.

03 October/04 Oc tober
Two full days of the most amazing game viewing on the planet in spectacular surrounds. Both nights are spent in a private campsite. The Serengeti is a real highlight.

05 October
Drive to Ngorongoro Conservation Area via Olduvai Gorge - the sight of some of the earliest discoveries of the remains of man's ancestors. This is a truly fascinating experience. We the continue to the Conservation Area for dinner. Again we camp in a private campsite. This time near the rim of Ngorongoro Crater.


06 October
We descend 2000 feet to the crater floor for a half day tour. We'll explore the forests and lakes and search the open savanna area for predators. You will love the crater. we'll have a picnic lunch within the crater itself before returning to our private campsite for the night.

07 October
Today we return to Arusha where will will have lunch at the Impala hotel before being transferred to Kilimanjaro airport for our flight to Dar Es Salaam. In Dar Es Salaam we will be transferred to The Southern Sun Hotel for one night's accommodation.

08 October
Today you can choose to partake of your own further travel arrangements, you may fly back to your home city or you can join those of us who have chosen to explore Southern Tanzania. Those guests who choose to accompany me will be transferred to Dar Es Salaam airport. From here we will fly by light aircraft to Ruaha National Park. This is a scenic wilderness wonderland of wildlife experiences. We will stay for 4 nights at the amazing River Lodge. This will be our base while we explore the National Park with morning and afternoon games drives. Relax during your down time in front of your own personal hippo pool.
This is a special place indeed. Check out this link. http://www.tanzaniasafaris.info/Ruaha/accomodationbanda.htm

12 October
Transfer to the airstrip for the short flight to Selous Game Reserve for the last three nights of our trip together. I'll let this link speak for itself. http://www.rufijirivercamp.com/

15 October
Transfer to the airstrip for the flight back to Dar Es Salaam. Once again, everyone can either extend their trip or fly home from here. It's all over. Wow! What a fabulous experience.


Now then. What does all this cost?
If you invest in the entire trip - that's all 26 nights the cost is $10,680 per person twin share.
Or, you can partake in the first 18 nights only for $6840 per person twin share. In which case your final arrangement would be the transfer to Kilimanjaro airport on 07 October.

Almost all meals are included in the above price. 18 or 26 nights accommodation, all required transfers and internal flights. Professional guides are with us the whole except when we're flying obviously, and I will be there to iron out any wrinkles. (No, that doesn't mean I'm going to do your ironing for you.)

Not included are international flights from Australia, travel insurance and visas. Kenya visas are best obtained on arrival, but Tanzania visas must be obtained before departure from Australia. There are a few ways to get to East Africa. Fares for 2012 are not available yet, but I don't expect them to be much different from this year. I recommend Emirates as the best way to go. This September their economy class return fare to Nairobi/Dar Es Salaam is $2589. The other other alternatives such as Qantas/South African Airlines via Johannesburg or a combination of Thai Airways and Kenya Airlines through Bangkok.

Malaria tablets should be considered. Speak to your GP about that. Yellow Fever inoculations are compulsory, as is travel insurance.

To make further enquiries or to book please call Ucango Travel on 1300 822 646. Or, better still call me - Peter Emery direct on 0449 689 447. Remember. There are only 6 spots available.

To sum up, this is the chance of a lifetime to visit these famous wilderness areas and to do so in comfort.
It is a must for lovers of wildlife and wild vistas.


Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Safari Side Trip

Oh Boy! I'm so excited I have to walk around with my legs crossed. Not easy, you try it. Why are you so excited Peter? I hear you ask. Well, in October Jacky and I are taking a little side trip from Dubai to Kenya on the way home from Britain. It's easy enough to do, and not outrageously expensive. Less than AU$700 return per person. So, if you're on the way to Europe, or on the way back from Europe with Emirates, why not zip across to Nairobi instead of staying in Dubai. There are lots of wonderful adventures to be had there. Even if you only have 5 days to spare you can reach the Masai Mara in half a day's drive or an hour's flight. Plenty of time for a really good safari, and there are so many options, from budget camping to the most amazing five star lodges you can possible imagine. Of course you'll be going there for the wildlife. Time it right and you'll see the massed herds of wildebeest and zebras that migrate there every year from the Serengeti. If you're really super duper fortunate you might even get to see them as they cross the Mara River. I warn you though, this is not for the faint hearted.

If you only have a couple of days to spare you could instead visit Lake Nakuru which is even closer to Nairobi. I love Lake Nakuru. It has loads of wildlife crammed into quite a small area. You can't help but see some of the best fauna that Kenya has to offer. It's very scenic too, steep sided hills rolling down to a soda lake more often than not teeming with flamingos and pelicans. Here too there is a wide variety of accommodation. It is very easy to combine the two, both the Masai Mara and Lake Nakuru. If you have five nights, spend three in the Mara and two at the Lake.

Jacky and I will be heading north to Samburu National Reserve. This is probably my favourite reserve in Kenya. It's scenically stunning, has four of the "Big Five" (Rhino's are absent due to poaching unfortunately.), and also has some unusual species of animal that are seen in very few other places. The gerenuk, the grevy's zebra and the vulturine guinea fowl to name three. But, what's making me even more excited is that we are having a private safari. Just the two of us and our driver guide. This means that we don't have to stick to a set itinerary and if we want to stick around to watch animals in a certain situation we can do so without upsetting other passengers who might get bored, or want to do something else. We're looking forward to five wonderful days of animal and bird observation - pure bliss. We'll be staying at the Sopa Serena Lodge - a good quality three star lodge with thirty rooms.

The only down side of a visit to Samburu is that it can take six hours to drive there on somewhat indifferent roads. It's a scenic drive however as the road threads between Mount Kenya and the Aberdare Mountains and there's always plenty of other things to see besides. If you don't like the sound of six hours on dodgy roads you can always fly or stop half way in one or both directions. I can thoroughly recommend a night at Sweetwaters Tented Camp near the town of Nanyuki or perhaps The Serena Mountain Lodge which is tucked under Mount Kenya itself. We'll be staying at The Serena on the way back to Nairobi where there's always the chance of interesting wildlife sightings at the waterhole. We can do all this and still be back in Nairobi in time to catch our Emirates flight back to Dubai without having to spend another night there. It's brilliant.

So next time you decide to fly to Europe with Emirates, consider a side trip to Kenya instead of spending so much time in Dubai flitting from one air-conditioned building to another to avoid the 45 degree heat, or in my case avoiding the shopping malls. 

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

A Life Changing Experience

A couple of weeks ago I posted a blog called "The Wildlife Adventure of a Lifetime". Since then I've had a lot of interest in the East African part of the trip, and very little in the Southern Africa part. I'm here to please, so here is what I suggest.

My gorgeous wife Jacky and I will accompany six guests on the following itinerary. We will fly from Australia with Emirates via Dubai to Nairobi in October 2012. We'll spend two nights here and visit the wonderful Giraffe Centre and the Karen Blixen Museum. Lunch at the famous Carnivore restaurant is also on the cards. Then we'll hit the road in our own comfortable 4WD vehicle with our own professional driver/guide for some serious game viewing. We'll visit Samburu National Reserve, The Ark in the Aberdare mountains, Lake Nakuru, The Masai Mara to witness the great herds of the migration and Amboseli in the shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro. For this part of the adventure we will stay in comfortable 4 star lodges.

Then it's back to Nairobi for a flight to Arusha/Kilimanjaro. We'll spend one night at the Arusha Hotel before departing on our luxury ensuite camping adventure, again in our own 4WD vehicle and again with our own professional driver guide. He'll take us to Lake Manyara to see the famous tree climbing lions, the stunning Ngorongoro Crater, Olduvai Gorge - The Cradle of Mankind and the unique Serengeti. On this part of the journey we will be followed by a service vehicle and staff who will set up camp in private camp sites and who will cook our meals for us. Each tent has either a proper double bed a single bed or two singles. There is also an ensuite shower and toilet.

Finally we'll fly from Arusha to Dar Es Salaam where we will spend one night before setting off on an incredible 6 night adventure with Foxes Safaris. Firstly we fly by light aircraft to remote Katavi National Park. After two nights there it's onto Ruaha National Park and then finally 2 nights at Selous - a very special wildlife wonderland. Southern Tanzania is less developed and wilder than the north. There are fewer tourists and Foxes Safari Lodges are superbly located, have excellent guides and great food. You'll love every moment. After Selous it's back to Dar Es Salaam and the end of the trip - unless of course you'd like to extend for a few days to unwind on the white beaches of Zanzibar.

If you find this blog interesting and want to learn more please call Ucango Travel on 1300 822 646 and ask for me - Peter Emery, or simply email me direct at peter.emery@ucango.com.au This is a unique opportunity and a life changing experience.  Join me.

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Books For When You Book.

This week I thought I'd point you all in the direction of some interesting books to read on the subject of Africa and African wildlife. Obviously if you looking for an adventure novel almost anything by Wilbur Smith will do, although some of his later works are a little tedious, but they're still good for squashing cockroaches with. If your looking for a good animal book to take with you on your Safari try to get hold of a copy of "Signs of the Wild" by Clive Walker (Published by Struik.) It's a conveniently sized book containing some excellent information on animals of southern Africa. It has good photos and brief descriptions of behaviour. However, the best thing about it is the clear depictions of animal tracks and even photos of their droppings. It really does enhance your safari experience. If you can't get a copy before you go, you may be able to buy one at Johannesburg airport when you arrive. That's where I got mine. By the way the book also provides the names of animals in local tribal languages - handy if you want to know what your guide is talking about on his radio.

For more detailed information on animal behaviour grab a copy of "The Safari Companion" by Richard D Estes. (Published by Chelsea Green Publishing Company.) It's a real text book and contains very comprehensive information on animal behaviour. If you are a serious animal watcher I can thoroughly recommend it. However, if you're just going to Africa for a standard holiday or honeymoon you can probably live without it. It's fairly big and heavy too.

For bird watching grab yourself a copy of "Birds of Africa South of the Sahara" by Ian Sinclair and Peter Ryan. (Published by Struik). It contains good, clear illustrations and distribution maps and the bird your looking at is easy to find in the index of common names. Again, the only disadvantage is that is is quite large and heavy. A good small bird book is "Pocket-Guide to Southern African Birds" by Burger Cillie and Ulrich Oberprieler. (Published by Sunbird Publishing.) It has clear photos and again the birds are easy to find in a hurry.

Now here are a few good books to read before you go to Africa. "The Leopard's Tale' by naturalist and presenter of TV's Big Cat Dairy - Jonathon Scott (Published by Elm Tree Books.) "Cry of the Kalahari" by Mark & Delia Owens (Published by Collins) It's a beautifully written and very readable account of a pair of researchers' experiences while studying the wildlife of the Kalahari Desert. "Sand Rivers" by Peter Matthiessen. (Published by Bantam Books.) This concerns a fascinating expedition into the Selous National Reserve in Southern Tanzania before it really opened up to international visitors.

One of my all time favourites is "The Wilderness Family" by Kobie Kruger. (Published by Bantam Books.) It's a memoir of a family's life in the bush. Be warned though, it's a real tear jerker. For history buffs there's "The White Nile" by Alan Moorhead. (Published by Penguin.) If you like historical novels theres "The Covenant" by James Michener. This is a sweeping epic covering the history of South Africa. It's a good read and can be used to hold open heavy doors when you've finished with it. Sorry can't remember who the publisher is.

Some of my other favourites are......
The Trouble with Africa - Vic Guhrs
Facing the Congo - Jeffrey Taylor
Bonobo Handshake - Vanessa Woods
Journey Without Maps - Graham Greene
Jock of the Bushveld - Sir Percy Fitzpatrick
I Dreamed of Africa - Kuki Gallmann. (Have the tissues at hand for this one too.)

Finally I'd like to recommend "The No1 Ladies Detective Agency" series of books by Alexander McCall Smith. I think there are twelve books so far. They are gentle, humouous novels about Botswana's only lady private detective. They are a delight. You might not learn much about African wildlife from them but they're a lovely, light, undemanding read. Happy reading everyone.