One of the most exciting sightings on any safari would have to be a pack of African wild dogs, also known as painted dogs. To see a pack of these big, black, tan and white, blotchy, rangy canines on the hunt is a spectacular sight. Twelve months ago I was camping in Botswana's Moremi Games Reserve. It was a bitterly cold morning with a vast, pale blue dome of sky above the trees and a frosting of sparkling ice on my tent. The barking alarm call of an impala alerted us that something may be afoot. Then in one's and twos the graceful antelopes started running past our camp less than a hundred metres away.
Moments later the entire herd was streaming past us, oblivious to our campsite, obviously seriously panicked. Then the African wild dogs appeared through the trees, moving rapidly but still only loping along in a gait that they can keep up all day. They run down their prey over great distances, unlike the big cats they don't usually ambush their prey. They are the most successful hunter, with 80% of their hunts ending in a kill. A single lion has an average hunting success rate of only 15%. If two or more lions hunt together their success rate rises to 30%. Leopards - solitary animals have a success rate of only 10%.
Once the herd of impala and the pack of dogs had passed, we followed in the vehicle, hoping to see a kill. But over the rough ground we couldn't keep up and in any case the dogs split up amongst the trees in pursuit of the antelopes. Nevertheless it was an exciting chase, and such a tremendous privilege to get so close to these magnificent animals. Sadly it is estimated that only between 3000 - 5000 remain in the wild. They suffer from the diseases of domestic dogs transmitted when the two come together and they are persecuted by farmers for killing stock.
They have incredibly powerful jaws, with a bite force quotient measured at 142 - the highest of any animal in the order carnivora. They have 42 teeth, specially adapted for ripping and tearing to allow for a speedy consumption of their prey before larger and more powerful predators can chase them away. Two places where these wonderful animals can be reliably seen are Madikwe Private Game Reserve in South Africa and in Botswana's Okavango Delta, including the Moremi Game Reserve. If you do manage to get a glimpse of the African Wild dog remember to take lots of photos, there's a good chance that they won't be around in the wild for very much longer.
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
The Chuckling Elephant
I've just spent two nights at Nguni River Lodge in South Africa's Eastern Cape, about an hour an a half's drive from Port Elizabeth. I liked the lodge, the staff were friendly, the food good and the rooms luxurious.
Yet there was something missing, and it's hard to put my finger on what it was. I think it may have been the feeling of remoteness that one finds in game reserves like Madikwe. Nguni River Lodge is in a private concession adjacent to Addo Elephant National Park. While the concession has dangerous animals species like buffalo, elephant and black rhino, it has no large predators which somehow distracts from the game viewing experience. You don't always see predators in other reserves, but knowing that they are there lends a sort of heightened anticipation, a titillating sense of danger.
To see lions one must leave the concession and travel to the national park proper, and the driver steers his four wheel drive open game viewing vehicle through the gates, across a fairly busy road and a railway track onto a nicely sealed road, which then winds past a visitors centre and restaurant. It's all a bit zoo-like. Once you're in the park you share the road with other private vehicles, the drivers of which generally have no idea of how to read the body language of large animals like elephants. They have no concept of an animals comfort zone - when it is happy to tolerate the vehicle and more importantly, when it isn't.
So you share your game viewing with Mr and Mrs Pienaar and their 2.3 kids from Durban. They get impatient with an elephant blocking the road and in trying to creep past, getting too close, disturbing the animal so that it either shuffles off into the bush so that you lose the sighting, or they make it angry enough to turn their Toyota Corolla on to it's roof. We followed a huge bull with the biggest tusks I've ever seen as he trundled happily along the road. He was in must and dribbled urine copiously down his legs as he walked, yet he was happy to tolerate our presence as long as we stayed about twenty metres behind him. Then as he rounded a corner a brand new, gleaming four wheel drive vehicle appeared in front of him. It was clear that this car had never been driven off-road. The look on the driver and passenger's face was comical. They looked as though they had driven onto a railway line only to become stuck and see a locomotive bearing down on them. All they had to do was to pull over to one side and stop to let the big bull pass. But they had no intention of getting their new car's wheels dirty by driving onto the gravel shoulder. No, they just reversed, and reversed, and reversed for about a quarter of an hour while we followed the elephant at a respectful distance. Our driver turned to me and said dryly "These guys are going to reverse all the way back to Port Elizabeth." Finally the old bull ambled off the road into the bush, probably chuckling as he went.
Later we found a large male lion making his stately way across the road. We stopped to watch him and he just lay down on the tarmac, enjoying the warmth of the morning sun. Before long a young couple drove up in a minuscule FIAT 500. Their arrival mildly disturbed the lion and he stood and stretched, taking a couple of steps towards the FIAT. At this point the occupants realised that the lion was bigger than their car and tried to scramble to the safety of their back seat - not easy for two people to do simultaneously in a FIAT 500.
All I'm saying is that places like Nguni and Addo are nice places to relax for a couple of days after a few days Garden Route tour or self drive, but my recommendation is that you don't make National Parks including Kruger and Pilanesberg your main game viewing experience in South Africa. Rather spend a little more and spend at least three nights in a "big five" private reserve like Sabi Sands or Madikwe where the only drivers are professional guides and you won't have to share the road with Mr and Mrs Pienaar in their Toyota Corolla.
Yet there was something missing, and it's hard to put my finger on what it was. I think it may have been the feeling of remoteness that one finds in game reserves like Madikwe. Nguni River Lodge is in a private concession adjacent to Addo Elephant National Park. While the concession has dangerous animals species like buffalo, elephant and black rhino, it has no large predators which somehow distracts from the game viewing experience. You don't always see predators in other reserves, but knowing that they are there lends a sort of heightened anticipation, a titillating sense of danger.
To see lions one must leave the concession and travel to the national park proper, and the driver steers his four wheel drive open game viewing vehicle through the gates, across a fairly busy road and a railway track onto a nicely sealed road, which then winds past a visitors centre and restaurant. It's all a bit zoo-like. Once you're in the park you share the road with other private vehicles, the drivers of which generally have no idea of how to read the body language of large animals like elephants. They have no concept of an animals comfort zone - when it is happy to tolerate the vehicle and more importantly, when it isn't.
So you share your game viewing with Mr and Mrs Pienaar and their 2.3 kids from Durban. They get impatient with an elephant blocking the road and in trying to creep past, getting too close, disturbing the animal so that it either shuffles off into the bush so that you lose the sighting, or they make it angry enough to turn their Toyota Corolla on to it's roof. We followed a huge bull with the biggest tusks I've ever seen as he trundled happily along the road. He was in must and dribbled urine copiously down his legs as he walked, yet he was happy to tolerate our presence as long as we stayed about twenty metres behind him. Then as he rounded a corner a brand new, gleaming four wheel drive vehicle appeared in front of him. It was clear that this car had never been driven off-road. The look on the driver and passenger's face was comical. They looked as though they had driven onto a railway line only to become stuck and see a locomotive bearing down on them. All they had to do was to pull over to one side and stop to let the big bull pass. But they had no intention of getting their new car's wheels dirty by driving onto the gravel shoulder. No, they just reversed, and reversed, and reversed for about a quarter of an hour while we followed the elephant at a respectful distance. Our driver turned to me and said dryly "These guys are going to reverse all the way back to Port Elizabeth." Finally the old bull ambled off the road into the bush, probably chuckling as he went.
Later we found a large male lion making his stately way across the road. We stopped to watch him and he just lay down on the tarmac, enjoying the warmth of the morning sun. Before long a young couple drove up in a minuscule FIAT 500. Their arrival mildly disturbed the lion and he stood and stretched, taking a couple of steps towards the FIAT. At this point the occupants realised that the lion was bigger than their car and tried to scramble to the safety of their back seat - not easy for two people to do simultaneously in a FIAT 500.
All I'm saying is that places like Nguni and Addo are nice places to relax for a couple of days after a few days Garden Route tour or self drive, but my recommendation is that you don't make National Parks including Kruger and Pilanesberg your main game viewing experience in South Africa. Rather spend a little more and spend at least three nights in a "big five" private reserve like Sabi Sands or Madikwe where the only drivers are professional guides and you won't have to share the road with Mr and Mrs Pienaar in their Toyota Corolla.
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
Talk to the Animals
You don't just have to sit in the back of a game viewing vehicle and watch the animals in Africa, you can touch them and interact with them too. Don't get me wrong. I'm not recommending that you leap out of the vehicle, run over to the nearest lioness and give her a big squeeze. Neither am I suggesting that you try to share your morning tea with a spotted hyena.
What you can do though is visit Moholoholo Wild Animal Sanctuary near Kruger National Park in South Africa. On my last visit they had a baby hippo that met you at the entrance gate and followed you around like a dog until he got too hot and tired, at which point he flopped down in the middle of the path and went to sleep. There was also a baby white rhino being cared for by a pair of Aussie volunteers. We were able to stoke him and watch him being fed with an enormous bottle of milk. You could also have vultures perch on your arm (very heavy), and you could pat a honey badger, which I've always thought would be a little like patting a chainsaw. This one was quite friendly though. The animals they have there vary all the time depending on what has come in and what has been re-released. They rehabilitate wild animals that have been injured or orphaned due to human activity. Go and take a look, it's a great place.
http://www.moholoholo.co.za/index.asp?pgid=5
Further north at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe or Livingstone in Zambia there is the "Lion Encounter." I guarantee you'll love this. You are able to walk through the bush accompanied by two or three lion cubs. You are able to stroke them, pat them and watch them interact with their natural environment. Of course you are escorted by their handlers but the lions are free to wander and do what they want - sniff, climb trees, flop down and sleep etc. You have to do this. It really is magical.
http://safpar.com/lion_encounter.htm
Also at Victoria Falls and Livingstone you can do an Elephant Back Safari. Here you assemble at a bush lodge early in the morning and are introduced to the elephants and their mahouts. Next you climb aboard for a lovely peaceful walk through the African bush with some stunning views of the Zambezi gorge close to the Victoria Falls itself. After your elephant back safari you hand-feed your elephant his or her breakfast before sitting down to your own cooked meal.
http://safpar.com/elephant_back_safaris.htm
Then in Nairobi there is the wonderful Giraffe Centre. A day trip here enables you to see eye to eye with these beautiful creatures. You can feed them too. Watch out for their amazing eighteen inch long blue tongues which seem to have a mind of their own. getting licked by one is like being whipped across the face with a sheet of sandpaper. The Karen Blixen Museum is nearby too so why not visit both - especially if you're a fan of "Out of Africa."
http://www.giraffecenter.org/
http://www.karenblixen.com/
What you can do though is visit Moholoholo Wild Animal Sanctuary near Kruger National Park in South Africa. On my last visit they had a baby hippo that met you at the entrance gate and followed you around like a dog until he got too hot and tired, at which point he flopped down in the middle of the path and went to sleep. There was also a baby white rhino being cared for by a pair of Aussie volunteers. We were able to stoke him and watch him being fed with an enormous bottle of milk. You could also have vultures perch on your arm (very heavy), and you could pat a honey badger, which I've always thought would be a little like patting a chainsaw. This one was quite friendly though. The animals they have there vary all the time depending on what has come in and what has been re-released. They rehabilitate wild animals that have been injured or orphaned due to human activity. Go and take a look, it's a great place.
http://www.moholoholo.co.za/index.asp?pgid=5
Further north at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe or Livingstone in Zambia there is the "Lion Encounter." I guarantee you'll love this. You are able to walk through the bush accompanied by two or three lion cubs. You are able to stroke them, pat them and watch them interact with their natural environment. Of course you are escorted by their handlers but the lions are free to wander and do what they want - sniff, climb trees, flop down and sleep etc. You have to do this. It really is magical.
http://safpar.com/lion_encounter.htm
Also at Victoria Falls and Livingstone you can do an Elephant Back Safari. Here you assemble at a bush lodge early in the morning and are introduced to the elephants and their mahouts. Next you climb aboard for a lovely peaceful walk through the African bush with some stunning views of the Zambezi gorge close to the Victoria Falls itself. After your elephant back safari you hand-feed your elephant his or her breakfast before sitting down to your own cooked meal.
http://safpar.com/elephant_back_safaris.htm
Then in Nairobi there is the wonderful Giraffe Centre. A day trip here enables you to see eye to eye with these beautiful creatures. You can feed them too. Watch out for their amazing eighteen inch long blue tongues which seem to have a mind of their own. getting licked by one is like being whipped across the face with a sheet of sandpaper. The Karen Blixen Museum is nearby too so why not visit both - especially if you're a fan of "Out of Africa."
http://www.giraffecenter.org/
http://www.karenblixen.com/
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Life's a Beach
Fancy relaxing on a beach after your African safari? Here's a few ideas for you. Air Mauritius fly from Australia to Johannesburg, so you can stop in Mauritius in both directions, both pre and post safari. Mauritius has many great resorts to offer.
http://www.beachcomber.com.au/mauritius/beachcomber_hotels
A great combination would be to utilise Air Mauritius' offer of a free night's accommodation in Mauritius on the way to Africa because their flights do not connect. Then travel on to Johannesburg, spend some time in Cape Town, then visit Madikwe private game reserve before shooting up to Victoria Falls for a few nights. Then back to Johannesburg to pick up your flight to Mauritius for a few days R&R on a beach before heading home.
Alternatively you could fly straight through to South Africa with Qantas or South African Airlines, have a sensational safari in South Africa, Botswana or Namibia (Don't forget to squeeze in Victoria Falls.) and then take a side trip to Mozambique where you will find some absolutely stunning beach resorts.
http://www.mozambique.co.za/Popular_Selections-travel/mozambique-romantic-holiday-packages.html
You may prefer East Africa of course, in which case you could combine a trip to the spectacular northern game viewing areas like the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, Lake Manyara and Tarangire with a couple of nights in Zanzibar's historic Stone Town before moving across to the eastern side of the islands for a beach break at one of the many resorts there. Baraza Resort Camp; Spa for example.
http://www.baraza-zanzibar.com/
For something a little different you may like to visit the game reserves and National parks in Southern Tanzania. There are generally less visited and are wilder and woollier. There's a string of them like stepping stones reaching westward from Dar Es Salaam. Mikumi, Selous, Ruaha and Katavi. Foxes Safaris have great camps in each and you can relax at the end with a few nights at Lazy Lagoon, their beach resort on their own island in the Zanzibar Channel.
http://www.tanzaniasafaris.info/LazyLagoon/accomodation.htm
Last but not least Kenya. How about a 10 night safari visiting Samburu, Lake Nakuru, Masai Mara and Amboseli topped off with a few nights relaxation at somewhere like the sensational Manda Bay Resort in the Lamu Archipelago of Northern Kenya.
http://www.mandabay.com/
It doesn't matter in which part of Africa you plan to have your safari experience, there's a great beach resort waiting for you at the end, with great food, icy cocktails and white sandy beaches. The perfect way to end your trip.
http://www.beachcomber.com.au/mauritius/beachcomber_hotels
A great combination would be to utilise Air Mauritius' offer of a free night's accommodation in Mauritius on the way to Africa because their flights do not connect. Then travel on to Johannesburg, spend some time in Cape Town, then visit Madikwe private game reserve before shooting up to Victoria Falls for a few nights. Then back to Johannesburg to pick up your flight to Mauritius for a few days R&R on a beach before heading home.
Alternatively you could fly straight through to South Africa with Qantas or South African Airlines, have a sensational safari in South Africa, Botswana or Namibia (Don't forget to squeeze in Victoria Falls.) and then take a side trip to Mozambique where you will find some absolutely stunning beach resorts.
http://www.mozambique.co.za/Popular_Selections-travel/mozambique-romantic-holiday-packages.html
You may prefer East Africa of course, in which case you could combine a trip to the spectacular northern game viewing areas like the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, Lake Manyara and Tarangire with a couple of nights in Zanzibar's historic Stone Town before moving across to the eastern side of the islands for a beach break at one of the many resorts there. Baraza Resort Camp; Spa for example.
http://www.baraza-zanzibar.com/
For something a little different you may like to visit the game reserves and National parks in Southern Tanzania. There are generally less visited and are wilder and woollier. There's a string of them like stepping stones reaching westward from Dar Es Salaam. Mikumi, Selous, Ruaha and Katavi. Foxes Safaris have great camps in each and you can relax at the end with a few nights at Lazy Lagoon, their beach resort on their own island in the Zanzibar Channel.
http://www.tanzaniasafaris.info/LazyLagoon/accomodation.htm
Last but not least Kenya. How about a 10 night safari visiting Samburu, Lake Nakuru, Masai Mara and Amboseli topped off with a few nights relaxation at somewhere like the sensational Manda Bay Resort in the Lamu Archipelago of Northern Kenya.
http://www.mandabay.com/
It doesn't matter in which part of Africa you plan to have your safari experience, there's a great beach resort waiting for you at the end, with great food, icy cocktails and white sandy beaches. The perfect way to end your trip.
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
I'm Excited!
I'm a little excited today. In fact the last time a Pom was this excited was at about 5.15pm on 30 July 1966.
Google the date and you'll know what I'm talking about. The reason for my current agitated state? Well there are two actually. Firstly I'm heading off to Tanzania in October to climb Mount Kilimanjaro, leading a small group on a 9 day professionally guided adventure.
http://ucango.com.au/_webapp_765339/9_day_Mount_Kilimanjaro_Adventure
This group is filling fast. It promises to be an amazing, life changing experience for all of us, so get on board now. All the details are on the above link. Safety is paramount and we even provide porters. There is no technical climbing involved, but let's be honest, it is a tough climb so a certain standard of fitness is required.
Having said that, the climb is suitable for a wide range of people. The youngest ever climber was 7 year old Keats Boyd from Los Angeles and the oldest was 82 year old George Solt from Buckinghamshire, England.
The second reason for current state of euphoria is that I have managed to secure a private departure exclusive to Ucango Travel on Wilderness Dawning's 11 day/10 night Okavango Wildlife Safari departing on 16 May 2012. This tour (8 passengers maximum) will be lead by ornithologist and author Jan Lewis. It is a non-participatory camping trip through the wildlife hotspots of Botswana. This mean, no cooking, no putting up of tents, in fact no discomfort whatsoever. Your tents are large, two man, walk-in tents with camp beds and all linen. No sleeping bags required. You even get a nice fluffy doona. You will spend two nights on a houseboat in Namibia on the Okavango River before visiting the Okavango Delta itself, Moremi Game Reserve, Savute and Chobe National Park. I can promise you the most amazing wildlife experience you've ever had. Apart from Jan's knowledge you will also have a professional driver/guide and camp attendants to cook and erect the tents for you. All you have to do is enjoy the trip. Just click on the link below for all the details.
http://ucango.com.au/_webapp_647368/Okavango_Wildlife_Safari
So there we have it. Two incredible adventures to choose from. I only hope that I don't have to wait another 45 years for experience this level of excitement.
Google the date and you'll know what I'm talking about. The reason for my current agitated state? Well there are two actually. Firstly I'm heading off to Tanzania in October to climb Mount Kilimanjaro, leading a small group on a 9 day professionally guided adventure.
http://ucango.com.au/_webapp_765339/9_day_Mount_Kilimanjaro_Adventure
This group is filling fast. It promises to be an amazing, life changing experience for all of us, so get on board now. All the details are on the above link. Safety is paramount and we even provide porters. There is no technical climbing involved, but let's be honest, it is a tough climb so a certain standard of fitness is required.
Having said that, the climb is suitable for a wide range of people. The youngest ever climber was 7 year old Keats Boyd from Los Angeles and the oldest was 82 year old George Solt from Buckinghamshire, England.
The second reason for current state of euphoria is that I have managed to secure a private departure exclusive to Ucango Travel on Wilderness Dawning's 11 day/10 night Okavango Wildlife Safari departing on 16 May 2012. This tour (8 passengers maximum) will be lead by ornithologist and author Jan Lewis. It is a non-participatory camping trip through the wildlife hotspots of Botswana. This mean, no cooking, no putting up of tents, in fact no discomfort whatsoever. Your tents are large, two man, walk-in tents with camp beds and all linen. No sleeping bags required. You even get a nice fluffy doona. You will spend two nights on a houseboat in Namibia on the Okavango River before visiting the Okavango Delta itself, Moremi Game Reserve, Savute and Chobe National Park. I can promise you the most amazing wildlife experience you've ever had. Apart from Jan's knowledge you will also have a professional driver/guide and camp attendants to cook and erect the tents for you. All you have to do is enjoy the trip. Just click on the link below for all the details.
http://ucango.com.au/_webapp_647368/Okavango_Wildlife_Safari
So there we have it. Two incredible adventures to choose from. I only hope that I don't have to wait another 45 years for experience this level of excitement.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Dung is Fascinating
More and more companies are offering walking safaris, and it really is an amazing experience. You'll get to see nature close up. You walk in small groups, usually no more than six. You have a guide and often a guard, both of whom are armed in case of emergency. Don't let that alarm you though, reputable companies have highly professional guides trained to avoid dangerous situations. Guides who get their guests into a situation where they are forced to fire even a warning shot will get into all kinds of trouble with the authorities.
Having said that, don't expect to get as close to the animals as you would in a vehicle, to which they have become somewhat habituated. Nevertheless, your guide will get you as close as is safely possible given cover and wind conditions.
Our guide at Rhino Walking Safaris at Kruger National Park in South Africa took us to within twenty metres of a white rhino by skillfully using the wind direction and by keeping us behind a fallen tree which had the animal charged, it would not be able to jump over. Rhino's not surprisingly are not great jumpers. It was incredible to be so close on foot to such a huge animal - a real adrenaline rush.
Being on foot within a hundred metres of a herd of elephants is quite a buzz too. Even at a distance you can feel the power and size of these wonderful creatures, and you'll hear the rumbles and squeaks of their communications. Lions are good fun too, though they'll see you more often than you'll see them on foot. They're not going to attack a group of people, but will stay warily in the distance watching you intently as you pass by.
You will see some wonderful insect and bird life. You'll learn the importance of termites and dung beetles to the environment. You may find a hornbill nest - a hole in a tree, sealed by mud except for a narrow slit by the male bird. The female lays her eggs in the hole and the male feeds her and the chicks through the slit. The female then goes through a complete moult and loses the ability to fly. Once she has regrown her plumage she breaks out of the nest opening which is then resealed by the chicks. Both adults then feed the chicks through the slit until they are old enough to break out and fly themselves.
Your guide will also show you the various animal tracks and teach you how to identify which animals have passed by looking at their dung. Giraffe droppings are very small for the size of the animal and the droppings of male and female are different. You'll be looking at poo in an entirely different light by the end of the walk.
So don't be afraid, be a little adventurous, do a walking safari and see the real Africa. Here are a few examples of some companies that offer professionally guided walking safaris.
Rhino Walking Safaris - Kruger National Park, South Africa.
Norman Carr Safaris - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia.
Robin Pope Safaris - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia.
Wilderness Journeys - Serengeti National Park, Tanzania.
There are many others. Call me for details, Peter Emery 1300 822 646.
Having said that, don't expect to get as close to the animals as you would in a vehicle, to which they have become somewhat habituated. Nevertheless, your guide will get you as close as is safely possible given cover and wind conditions.
Our guide at Rhino Walking Safaris at Kruger National Park in South Africa took us to within twenty metres of a white rhino by skillfully using the wind direction and by keeping us behind a fallen tree which had the animal charged, it would not be able to jump over. Rhino's not surprisingly are not great jumpers. It was incredible to be so close on foot to such a huge animal - a real adrenaline rush.
Being on foot within a hundred metres of a herd of elephants is quite a buzz too. Even at a distance you can feel the power and size of these wonderful creatures, and you'll hear the rumbles and squeaks of their communications. Lions are good fun too, though they'll see you more often than you'll see them on foot. They're not going to attack a group of people, but will stay warily in the distance watching you intently as you pass by.
You will see some wonderful insect and bird life. You'll learn the importance of termites and dung beetles to the environment. You may find a hornbill nest - a hole in a tree, sealed by mud except for a narrow slit by the male bird. The female lays her eggs in the hole and the male feeds her and the chicks through the slit. The female then goes through a complete moult and loses the ability to fly. Once she has regrown her plumage she breaks out of the nest opening which is then resealed by the chicks. Both adults then feed the chicks through the slit until they are old enough to break out and fly themselves.
Your guide will also show you the various animal tracks and teach you how to identify which animals have passed by looking at their dung. Giraffe droppings are very small for the size of the animal and the droppings of male and female are different. You'll be looking at poo in an entirely different light by the end of the walk.
So don't be afraid, be a little adventurous, do a walking safari and see the real Africa. Here are a few examples of some companies that offer professionally guided walking safaris.
Rhino Walking Safaris - Kruger National Park, South Africa.
Norman Carr Safaris - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia.
Robin Pope Safaris - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia.
Wilderness Journeys - Serengeti National Park, Tanzania.
There are many others. Call me for details, Peter Emery 1300 822 646.
Monday, April 4, 2011
Brothers in Arms
It was a cold, drizzly morning in the lowveld of Sabi Sands abutting Kruger National Park. Just the sort of morning when you can drive for hours and not see a single animal. In weather such as this they seek shelter in the midst of the thorny scrub. Then as the landrover breasted a low ridge and emerged into a clearing we were confronted by two dead bodies, their killers still standing over them. The corpses were buffaloes - a calf and its mother. Their slayers - two young male lions - brothers in arms, their tawny manes glittering with beads of rain, their rancid breath condensing into clouds in the cold air. We had only just missed the kill, the brothers had yet to start feeding. I could imagine the scene a few minutes earlier. The lions ambushing the buffaloes, narrowly avoiding the mother's horn and taking down the calf first - a relatively easy kill.
The mother would have been much harder to bring down. She'd have refused to leave her calf even when it was dead and she'd have kept the lions at bay for a while. She would have tired though, and one of the lions would have jumped onto her back, risking a jaw shattering kick that would have condemned the big cat to a lingering death by starvation. Meanwhile, the other brother would have clamped his jaws around the Buffalo's windpipe. Perhaps the first lion would have severed the beast's spinal cord, causing her to collapse. Death would have followed swiftly then.
Now as we drew to a halt at the edge of the clearing the brothers snarled at us, taken by surprise at our sudden appearance, a shockingly loud guttural rasp in the drizzle dampened silence. They settled then, realising we weren't a threat, but unnerving us all by staring straight through us with their cold amber eyes. Eyes that oozed arrogance and confidence. Eyes that said "I can kill you anytime I like." Then they started to feed, tearing a hole at the mother's rear end, ripping open her tough hide as though it were cotton. But all the time they watched us. Even while their muzzles were buried deep in the gore their eyes were fixed on ours, daring us to try to steal their meal. Now and again they raised their heads to show us their bloody faces - another threat?
Finally we left the brothers to eat their breakfast in peace and returned to the lodge for ours with mixed feeling about missing the kill. They are exciting events, but not for the faint hearted. The kills you see on nature programmes on television are usually very clinical affairs and often the editor will cut away once the pray animal has been caught. There's no squealing or screaming and very little blood to be seen. It must be remembered though that lions kill to survive and are not deliberately cruel - unlike humans. Indeed lions will kill as quickly as possible, usually by suffocating the animal with a bite to the windpipe. The last thing they want is a potential meal that kicks and waves sharp horns about, so they try to make it quick, less chance of being injured themselves that way.
Hyenas and African wild dogs? Well that's another story.
The mother would have been much harder to bring down. She'd have refused to leave her calf even when it was dead and she'd have kept the lions at bay for a while. She would have tired though, and one of the lions would have jumped onto her back, risking a jaw shattering kick that would have condemned the big cat to a lingering death by starvation. Meanwhile, the other brother would have clamped his jaws around the Buffalo's windpipe. Perhaps the first lion would have severed the beast's spinal cord, causing her to collapse. Death would have followed swiftly then.
Now as we drew to a halt at the edge of the clearing the brothers snarled at us, taken by surprise at our sudden appearance, a shockingly loud guttural rasp in the drizzle dampened silence. They settled then, realising we weren't a threat, but unnerving us all by staring straight through us with their cold amber eyes. Eyes that oozed arrogance and confidence. Eyes that said "I can kill you anytime I like." Then they started to feed, tearing a hole at the mother's rear end, ripping open her tough hide as though it were cotton. But all the time they watched us. Even while their muzzles were buried deep in the gore their eyes were fixed on ours, daring us to try to steal their meal. Now and again they raised their heads to show us their bloody faces - another threat?
Finally we left the brothers to eat their breakfast in peace and returned to the lodge for ours with mixed feeling about missing the kill. They are exciting events, but not for the faint hearted. The kills you see on nature programmes on television are usually very clinical affairs and often the editor will cut away once the pray animal has been caught. There's no squealing or screaming and very little blood to be seen. It must be remembered though that lions kill to survive and are not deliberately cruel - unlike humans. Indeed lions will kill as quickly as possible, usually by suffocating the animal with a bite to the windpipe. The last thing they want is a potential meal that kicks and waves sharp horns about, so they try to make it quick, less chance of being injured themselves that way.
Hyenas and African wild dogs? Well that's another story.
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